An ancient rainforest, rugged coastline, and an understated lesson in endurance.
At the end of last year, I finally stood in a landscape I had been fascinated with since 2017 when I first learned of it.
The first time I saw images of the Great Otways on Pinterest nearly a decade ago, I remember thinking: how can something world's away seem so familiar? The seaside cliffs, the cool fog, and the towering trees — it felt like a place not unlike where I grew up in Northern California.
I finally went.
The Landscape: Rugged Coast & Ancient Rainforest
The Great Ocean Road stretches roughly 240 kilometers (150 miles) along Victoria’s southern coastline. It was constructed between 1919 and 1932 by returned World War I soldiers and stands as the world’s largest war memorial.
This road however, is only but the last page in the manuscript of time for this place. The landscape is older than the dinosaurs.
The limestone stacks known as the Twelve Apostles were carved by relentless Southern Ocean swells over millions of years. What appears monumental is, in geological terms, fleeting. The coastline is constantly eroding — arches collapse, stacks fall, cliffs retreat.
Inland, the Great Otway National Park transitions into cool temperate rainforest. Here, ancient tree ferns, the behemoth Mountain Ash (Eucalyptus regnans — among the tallest flowering plants on Earth), and dense understorey vegetation create an ancient ecosystem that's remained vastly unchanged since the Cretaceous period. This primordial forest traces its origins back 140 million years to when Australia and Antarctica were still connected as part of the supercontinent of Gondwana.
As Antarctica separated from the coast of southern Australia and drifted into the polar region, the forests of The Otways stayed largely the same.
The Flora & The Fauna
The Otways are biologically rich.
Wildlife species you may encounter include:
- Platypus (Ornithorhynchus anatinus)
- Koalas along the coastal eucalyptus corridors
- Superb lyrebirds
- Swamp wallabies
- Powerful owls (that's actually what they're called)
- Glow worms along damp forest trails
- Threatened species such as the Spot-tailed Quoll
The Otways support:
- Old-growth Mountain Ash forests
- Myrtle Beech and Blackwood trees
- Rare temperate rainforest understorey species
Like many Australian ecosystems, the region faces pressures from:
- Climate change
- Bushfire intensity
- Habitat fragmentation
- Tourism impact
The Australian state of Victoria has invested heavily in conservation and park management, and it shows. Trails are well-maintained. Interpretive signage is thoughtful. Waste is controlled.
Still, preservation requires vigilance.
Protection measures must continue to prioritize:
- Habitat corridors
- Responsible tourism caps
- Fire management informed by cultural burning knowledge
- Land stewardship partnerships
The highlight of my time in the region was a dusk canoe tour on Lake Elizabeth with Otway Eco Tours.
Lake Elizabeth itself was formed in 1952 after a landslide dammed the East Barwon River — an accidental creation that became an ideal habitat for platypus. These animals are shy, perseverant, and biologically extraordinary: egg-laying mammals with electroreception abilities and venomous spurs (in males).
We paddled in near-total silence. No sudden movements. No raised voices, or risk ruining any opportunity to spot these elusive creatures.
At dusk, the lake flattened into glass. One by one, small ripples appeared — then the unmistakable low silhouettes of platypuses began to surface.
The sightings were brief, and they were fleeting.
But it was perfect.
On the hike back, glow worms illuminated the trail like quiet constellations.
It was one of the most serene and reverent natural experiences I’ve had to date.
Traditional Lands & Cultural History
The Great Ocean Road and Otways traverse the traditional lands of several Aboriginal nations:
- Eastern Maar
- Gadubanud (also known as the King Parrot People)
- Wadawurrung (Wathaurong)
- Gulidjan
These communities maintained deep ecological relationships with this land for millennia prior to colonization — and still retain ties to the region.
The Gadubanud people, in particular, were closely associated with the Otway ranges. Colonial violence and displacement devastated these communities, and much of their recorded history was lost or fragmented.
During my visit, I hoped to engage more directly with Indigenous-oriented experiences and education. I found this more difficult than expected. For future travelers, I recommend seeking out cultural experiences hosted by the Wadawurrung and Eastern Maar people, who offer tours near Geelong and the Surf Coast.
Indigenous interpretation signage was generally available in national park areas, but was unfortunately one of the only viable ways I was able to learn about the Indigenous significance and relationships to place. Australia, like the United States, is in a position of needing to reckon with its violent past and the systems that continue to uphold anti-indigeneity. Though far from perfect, relatively speaking, there is a clear effort in effect — something that's sadly almost entirely absent from cultural discourse back at home.
Photography Notes: Light, Weather & Composition
Best Locations I Shot:
- Twelve Apostles
- Erskine Falls
- Hopetoun Falls
- The Redwoods of the Otways
- Lake Elizabeth
- Scenic vista points along the Great Ocean Road
Time of Day:
- Sunrise along the coast (fewer crowds, softer light)
- Overcast or rainy days in the rainforest (ideal for saturation and dynamic range control)
- Dawn or dusk for wildlife (especially platypus)
Weather:
The cool, rainy temperate climate is a gift for photographers. Fog diffuses harsh light. Wet foliage deepens greens. Storm systems over the Southern Ocean create dramatic skies. However, the coastal regions of Victoria are known to be prone to extreme weather patterns. Be prepared to experience all four seasons in a single day.
Gear Notes:
- Polarizer for waterfall and foliage control
- Sturdy tripod for long exposures
- Weather protection (rain covers, microfiber cloths)
- Longer lens (200mm+) for wildlife
Safety & Bush Preparedness
The Otways are accessible but still wild.
Bring:
- Waterproof outer layer
- Warm mid-layer (weather shifts quickly)
- Plenty of water
- Offline maps
- Headlamp
- Basic first aid kit
- High SPF sunscreen (Australian UV radiation is intense, even in diffused lighting)
- Snake bite bandage (compression + immobilization method is standard for Australian snake bites)
Snakes such as Eastern Brown Snakes and Tiger Snakes inhabit the region. Although bites are uncommon, and bite-related deaths are extremely rare, these species of snake are highly venomous. Stay on trails, remain alert, and be snake-aware. Read more here about snake safety & first-aid in Australia.
Ocean cliffs along the Great Ocean Road are often unstable. Do not cross safety barriers for photographs.
Conduct: Ecological & Social Responsibility
- Pack out what you pack in
- Stay on designated tracks
- Do not feed wildlife
- Keep noise minimal in sensitive areas
- Respect private farmland boundaries
- Learn the full history of the place. The story of human life in Australia didn't begin with the arrival of Europeans, but tens of thousands of years prior.
Final Reflections
I had waited nearly a decade to visit the Otways.
The cliffs were dramatic.
The rainforest was enveloping.
The platypus were unforgettable.
But what stayed with me most was the stillness.
The region feels cared for. Not untouched, but tended. Managed with awareness that beauty alone is not enough; it must be protected.
I left with gratitude, curiosity, and the hope to return. This time with a deeper engagement with the Traditional Custodians of the land.
The Otways are not loud in their beauty.
They reward patience.